"Mora dar chaval—plain dal with rice—is a dish with tremendous
significance for Parsis. It may appear anytime, but it has to be eaten
on any occasion out of the ordinary..... The underlying lesson is that
life cannot be led without experiencing both joy and sorrow in some
measure, and we mustn't make too much of either, for both are fleeting."
When I read this excerpt from 'My Bombay Kitchen: Traditional and Modern Parsi Home Cooking' by Niloufer Ichaporia King, I knew I just
had to make mora dal to celebrate the Parsi Food Weekend on IFF. Dal is
a staple in my house, and while I don't claim to be an expert, I do
know that nothing can beat a dal well made.
1 cup red lentils (masur dal), husked split pigeon peas (tuvar dal), or mung beans (mung dal)
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon (or more) salt
1 onion, quartered (optional)
1 green chile (optional)
4 cups (or more) water
1 to 2 tablespoons ghee or butter
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
1 to 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion or shallot (optional)
Pick over the dal to remove stones and chaff. Rinse the dal and
transfer to a pot; add the turmeric, 1/2 teaspoon salt, quartered onion,
and chile, if using, along with at least 4 cups water. Bring to boil;
reduce the heat and simmer, partly covered, until the dal is tender.
(Masur and mung dals soften in about half the time it takes to cook
tuvar dal, which needs a good 45 minutes to 1 hour.) Watch out for
overboiling, even with the heat down.
When the dal is soft and
mushy, pass through a sieve or a food mill or liquefy in a food
processor or with an immersion blender, which saves you the trouble of
pouring and transferring. The texture of the dal should be thick,
smooth, and pourable. Taste for salt.
To finish, heat the ghee in a
small skillet over medium heat. Sizzle the seeds, garlic, and onion, if
using, until the garlic begins to brown around the edges and the seeds
start to crackle. Tip the vaghar into the dal and stir.
Note: In my
mother's house, it was considered good practice to send dal to the table
in a tureen with the vaghar floating on top, a last-minute affair,
although the flavors have a better chance to combine if you stir in the
toasted spices ahead of time. If you're having dal as a first-course
soup, you can serve individual portions with a little vaghar poured over
each one.
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